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The Schlosszwergwand in Burggaillenreuth - rebuild and new. (25.07.02)
The Schlosszwergwand, that means the right lower Schlossbergwand, was not worth to visit last years. It was nearly clean, and you had only a few possibilities to protect it for yourselve.
In coordination with IG Klettern and the opener of the routes Burkhard Müller rebuild the routes in winter of 2001 and spring of 2002 and opend also new routes at this crag.
Now you mostly find good protected, nice climbing routes especially for beginners in the rate 3+ till 7-. At the right part of the crag is dominating athletically climbing in overhangig routes in the rate of 8 or 9.
Because of the easy routes the Schlosszwergwand is good for combination with the "big brother" Schlossbergwand with its difficult routes.
The crag is facing to the north and so it is perfectly for hot summer days.
Here you will find the topo.
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New Crag in the Sun in the Trubachtal - the "Balkenstein". (07.04.02)
Der This crag is perfectly suited for sunny winter days, offering routes from grade 6+ to 8-.
The fastest way to get to the "Balkenstein" is via Mostviel. You start walking into the direction of Egloffstein and move up the southern hill of the "Trubachtal" (valley of the little river "Trubach") by means of hiking trails and paths. It is getting more and more strenuous (read: steeper) towards the end of your walk-in and the base of the crag is so narrow - roughly 1 metre - (and slimy after rain) that it is not advisable to go there with kids.
Nevertheless, the climbs are worth the pain: the crag is roughly 15 metres high and is situated high above the "Trubachtal" with no trees or bushes around. In addition to this already "airy" feeling the routes are not bolted too generously so that good nerves are required. The wall is vertical and sometimes leaning a little backwards. A good technique is necessary to move upwards along small ledges.
The routes were opened at the end of the year 2000 and since then there has been little climbing. Therefore watch out - some holds may be loose. In addition to an old classic to the very left (grade 7-) Albert Gilgenrainer bolted another three routes and named them according to the season in which he opened them: "Adventszeit" (6+) (meaning: Advent time), "Nikolaus" (8-) (Santa Claus), and "Knecht Rupprecht" (8-) (how on earth am I to know who that is? let's say he is the guy who helps Santa Claus).
Not far away to the right Albert Gilgenrainer has also opened five slightly overhanging routes with good holds/holes. Since this wall faces northwest, however, you might prefer to go there in summer.
If you click here you will get more information on this crag:
Balkenstein
Nebenmassiv
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Ban on some routes along the "Röthelfels". (01.04.02)
Along the "Röthelfels" the routes between "Sonntagsspaziergang" and "Route R7" in the sector "Astronautenleiter" are off-limits, as has been the case during the past few years.
The ban has been introduced due to falcons which are expected to breed there and is valid from Feb., 27, till July, 15, 2002 (probably). Correspondent signs have already been fixed to the crag.
If the birds leave their nests early or if they do not breed there at all we will inform you correspondingly.
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Temporarily off - limits: please do not climb on these crags. (01.04.02)
Since February, 1, the temporally limited ban for a series of crags in the Frankenjura has been active once more. One crag has been added to the existing list of "forbidden" crags, namely the "Toni Rockstroh Gedenkwand", where climbing is not allowed from Feb., 1, till July, 15, the reason being bird breeding.
Below you find a survey of the crags affected by the ban:
Kleinziegenfelder Tal: Holzgauer Wand (individual routes only), Hammerschmiedturm, Dohlenwand, Kainachtaler Wand, Uhustein and Hohe Wand.
Wiesenttal: Geckofels near the Aalkorber Wänden (until July, 31), Rabenecker Wand (between "Frankenländer Kamin" and the "Linker Riß", from Feb., 1, till July, 31), Heinrichsgrotte, Matterhornwand, Freundschaftsturm and Richard Vogel Gedenkwand.
Püttlachtal: Toni Rockstroh Gedenkwand.
Trubachtal: Röthelfels (left of the arched rock (Felsentor)).
Pegnitztal: Roter Fels.
Krottenseer Forst: Folterkammer und Moskitorock.
Hirschbachtal: Sprungstein (Nov.,1, till August, 12).
If not mentioned otherwise all crags are off-limits from February, 1, till July, 15. The ban can be extended to other crags if birds are believed to breed there. If, on the other hand, there is definitely no breeding in a crags of the a.m. list then the ban will be lifted sooner pretty often.
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New in the database: The "Terrarium" (15.03.02)
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| Stefan Reinfelder in "Wirbelsäule" (8-), at "Terrarium" |
The "Terrarium" is a small, but interesting crag hidden in a valley branching off the "Wiesenttal", to the north of Waischenfeld.
Six routes have been bolted and three boulders have been defined there. All of them are rather hard and very steep with lots of holes - good ones and not-so-good ones. The crag is only 8 metres high and the routes were opened by Bayreuth-based Phillip Warda and friends at the end of 1998 / beginning of 1999.
The access to the crag is very steep, otherwise the "Terrarium" is perfectly suited for kids. The base is plain, and in the afternoon the sun will hit the crag which makes it an ideal winter climbing area.
If you are interested - please click here!
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Enjoy new climbs near Bärnfels! (15.03.02)
In the past few years a superb climbing crag has been developped, high up on a hill overlooking the village of Bärnfels. The "Wolfstein" is especially attractive to families and the "not-so-hard-movers".
If you want to know more about the "Wolfstein" - you will find detailed information here.
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